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Amiata "buglione" (the recipe of the miners of Castell'Azzara)

("Buglione" amiatino dei minatori di castell'Azzara)

  • 1 kg of lamb shoulder, cut in medium sized pieces
  • 6 garlic cloves, sheld and crushed
  • a well tied bunch (with string) composed of 2-3 small branches of fresh rosemary and one lock of sage
  • 5 spoons of olive oil
  • 16 garlic cloves with their shell
  • 1 glass of white wine
  • 2 spoons of tomato purér dissolved in 1/4 of hot broth made with one meat stock cube
  • 3 hot chili peppers
  • salt and pepper
Take a proper dimensioned pan, put oil, sheld garlics, the bunch with rosemary and sage and sauté them, over a medium-brisky heat, in order to flavour the oil, but take care not to brown the garlic or to burn the oil. Then, with the help of a skimmer, drain from the oil the garlics and the rosemary-sage and drop them and, in the same pan, without taking out from the heat, put the pieces of lamb, brown them well over a brisky heat, for about 5-6 minutes or until they will be rust-coloured. At this point crumble the hot chili peppers, then bathe with some white wine, let it evaporate very well (2-3 minutes), then add the tomato purée previously dissolved in the broth together with the garlics with their shells. Let it boil once again, lower the heat and cook slowly for 5-6 minutes, then add one big spoon of hot water, turn the stuff, cover with a lid, cook for 10 minutes in this way, then remove the lid, adjust the heat to the minimum and cook for 10 minutes more, very slowly, in order to mix all the flavours very well. Then taste and if necessary add some more salt and after two more minutes take the pan out from the heat and serve the pieces of lamb, very hot, over some roasted slices of bread; the garlics (that we call "in camicia") are not strong and acrid, but very sweet, and by this way they represent the proper seasoning of the tender and delicate meat of lamb.
We should thank, for this recipe, Mario of Castell'Azzara sull'Amiata and his brother, forest marshal. With this marginal note: this recipe can prepared also using chicken and rabbit meat, but the genuine and free-range ones.
According to our opinion, this marginal note highlights the real nature of this dish: in fact "buglione" means an unspecified and indiscriminate whole composed by the most varied things, so that it is inappropriate to prepare it with a single type of meat. By this way it brings us back to the "scottiglia", from Casentino, which is a very old preparation with barbarian origins, so quite extraneous to the area of Maremma, linked to the Etruscan and Latin tradition.
In any case this is a delicious recipe, with a strong and decise flavour, for people with a robust appetite and a strong sensuality.

A Giuseppe Alessi recipe
Translated by Gianna Toni


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