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“Mugellana” (from the Mugello) loin of veal with Beans

  • A)
  • 1kg of loin of veal, ready prepared by your butcher
  • 1 large onion, partially crushed and stuck with 4-5 cloves
  • 1 large celery stalk
  • 1 carrot broken in half
  • 1 meat stock cube
  • salt
  • B)
  • Roughly chop together 2 red onions
  • 1 celery stalk
  • 2 garlic cloves
  • a small bunch of parsley
  • 2 hot chillies
  • tomato
Two hours before starting the cooking, put the loin in a container and leave under a fine stream of running water. After which take a pan, put in enough cold water to eventually cover the loin, add the onion, celery, carrot, stock cube and a pinch of salt, bring to the boil. When the liquid reaches a rolling boil, with great care, introduce the loin and adjust the heat to simmer, cover and cook for about 45 minutes. In the meantime, in another pan cook the chopped vegetables in the oil over a medium heat until golden, stirring to avoid sticking, for 20 minutes. Add the tomato, cover and cook slowly for 20 minutes. Lift the loin from the stock and drain, leave to cool a little, cut away the superfluous fat with a knife, cut into small pieces (like tripe) then add to the pan with the boiling sauce. Stir well to mix, reduce the sauce a little over a high heat for 4-5 minutes then lower the heat, cover and cook for a further 20 minutes or until the loin is very tender and almost jelly-like. Serve with boiled beans (or boiled diced carrots) on the same plate to mix with the loin’s sauce.
It is a typical dish of Borgo S. Lorenzo in Mugello, where not too long ago it was prepared by Lorini, in his trattoria in this town. Years ago there was an enthusiastic admirer in a fantastic lady who remained forever a working class Roman despite her fame as a successful actress, Ave Ninchi, great, sensitive and refined gourmet who had a great esteem for Lorini and his “loin”. Therefore we feel very bound to her memory and her sensitivity for, besides our personal preference, we find enthusiastic agreement on the part of our colleagues, even though it certainly is not a particularly noble dish.

A Giuseppe Alessi recipe
Translated by Gianna Toni
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